Tradition: This shrine dedicated to the divinity Yeay Mao on the (old) road to Sihanoukville

Perhaps in the hope of finding happiness, and above all of continuing their journey in peace, many travellers on National Route 4 stop off at Pech Nil, in the province of Kampong Speu, to make offerings to Yeay Mao.

This sanctuary dedicated to the deity Yeay Mao is located in the Phnom Sruoch district of Kampong Speu province, about 95 kilometres from Phnom Penh on the road to Koh Kong and Sihanoukville. It's easy to find, as it's situated on the top of a hill in an area that's very busy with vehicles.

Fruit offerings, incense sticks and prayers are all part of the ritual at this almost obligatory stop for any Cambodian travelling to the country's coastal regions using this road.

Many travellers and businessmen are firm believers in the spirit of Yeay Mao, and their main concern is to continue their journey safely and with good weather.

There are several versions of the story of the sanctuary, some very cheeky about Yeay Mao's desires and others much more traditional.

According to a book of Khmer folk tales, in 1816 there was no road from Phnom Penh to the coast, only a large path accessible by buffalo cart. At the time, everyone was afraid to travel through the forest because of the presence of big cats and elephants.

One day, a man called Ta Krahormkar and his wife Yeay Mao were walking through the forest with other Cambodians. They stopped for refreshments when dozens of elephants charged them.

The men fled and Yeay Mao was confronted by a gigantic tiger. She tried to call her husband for help, but no one heard her and the tiger devoured her.

After that, the Cambodians were afraid to walk in the forest and got into the habit of asking Yeay Mao for protection so that they could cross the forest in complete safety, without encountering either tiger or elephant.

The tradition has been modernised and nowadays, a stop at the shrine is mainly an opportunity to pray to the deity to avoid a car accident on a rather dangerous road.

You can also stretch your legs, buy some fruit snacks and use the public toilets. If you're not in a hurry, you might like to take the time to feed the macaques that have taken up residence here.