Phnom Kulen National Park, officially known as Preah Cheyvaraman-Norodom Phnom Kulen National Park, is a national park located in the Phnom Kulen mountain range in Siem Reap province.
In Angkorian times, the land was called Mahendraparvata (the mountain of the great Indra) and was the place where Jayavarman II declared himself chakravartin (king of kings), an act considered to be the beginning of the foundation of the Khmer empire.
Phnom Kulen National Park is located in Svay Leu district, about 48 km from the provincial town of Siem Reap. A visit to Phnom Kulen is a must:
The archaeological site of Kbal Spean
Also known as the ‘Valley of a Thousand Lingas’, it is located on the mountain along the Kbal Spean River, a tributary of the Siem Reap River. The site contains numerous Yoni and Linga figures, as well as other figures carved into the rocks and riverbanks, which are fully exposed in the dry season.
The river is shallow and small waterfalls form on the site during the rainy season. The site can be reached by trekking along a 1.5 km track from the public car park.
Preah Ang Thom
Preah Ang Thom is an eight-metre statue of a reclining Buddha who has attained nirvana. The statue is carved from an enormous sandstone boulder. Preah Ang Thom is the sacred god of Phnom Kulen.
Access to the temple where the statue rests is via a grand staircase surrounded by greenery, rocks and vendors selling fruit, medicinal herbs and souvenirs. Both the main statue and the area around the temple where it rests are particularly photogenic.
Waterfalls
There are two main waterfalls at Phnom Kulen below the temple. The first is around five metres high and around 25 metres wide during the rainy season. The second is around twenty metres high and fifteen metres wide. Access to the waterfalls is via a large dirt track, which is quite damaged and the area around it is invaded by traders selling anything and everything. Although considered a sacred mountain, the surrounding activities seem to be motivated by very earthly concerns.
At the dozens of stalls set up along the way, you'll find a jumble of drinks, swimwear, hats, kramas... nothing very intoxicating, as many of the products come from the same suppliers as the Siem Reap night market.
There are, however, a few interesting natural products such as local honey and medicinal herbs. Unfortunately, they also sell a few skins, teeth and dried organs of wild animals.
Awe-inspiring
After shopping, it's time to discover the two waterfalls. The first is very easy to get to and is mainly used as a selfie factory, as young Khmers, and even the not-so-young, love to have their photo taken in front of this freshwater surge.
Swimming is possible, but not recommended, as the rough water makes it impossible to see the bottom clearly and it is very slippery.
And the concrete footbridge that served as a barrier between the two waterfalls - the second, larger one is just below the first - has been completely demolished. A moment's inattention, a slip, and it's easy to find yourself twenty metres below on the rocks... however, the place is also worth its weight in photographs and many photographers hover around the arrivals to offer THE photo in front of the waterfall...
The second waterfall is absolutely spectacular. However, access to it remains rather difficult, via a rather rudimentary metal staircase that has lost a few steps. The staircase is quite steep, as it hugs the rather steep slope of the cliff.
You'll need to be in good shape to venture up there, and avoid peak days (weekends and public holidays), as it's hard to get two people up a step. But you'll be in for a change of scenery with this beautiful, massive waterfall surrounded by lush greenery. As for swimming, it's possible and less risky than the first waterfall...
Text and photographs by Christophe Gargiulo
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