Portrait & Siem Reap: happiness is in the ranch

After leaving Cambodia in 1975, Sary Pann decided to return to the land of his birth to pursue his love of horses. Little did he know that his passion would give rise to one of the city's most original venues.

In his haven of greenery, Sary Pann proudly poses in front of the countless statues that dot the 4 hectares of land. With jet-black hair, a wide belt buckle and a thumbs-up, the 75-year-old breeder looks 10 years younger, thriving in his estate, which he has been developing steadily for the past 20 years.

Before reaching the stables, visitors have to wander along a shady path, where representations of Buddha compete with Ganesh, proud Dvarapala and other Thorani, adding to the pleasure of the walk.

There is something of the ideal palace here, a concrete testimony to the legacy that a man wanted to leave, in his own words, to future generations. A work that is never finished and is constantly expanding, as evidenced by the many blocks of stone and the small army of carvers working around them in the hubbub of tools.

‘It's the same stone that was used to build Angkor’, Sary insists.

As for the deities represented, ‘I believe in all of them and have sincere respect for them.

‘Living life to the full through and for my passion

Although the Happy Ranch is now home to 15 horses, it was once home to many more, the fruit of a long adventure that began somewhat by chance: ‘When I moved here, I had enough money to buy a small plot of land and a horse. When I set up here, I had enough money to buy a small plot of land and a horse. But you know how a passion can be all-consuming! I bought another horse, then a third, then a fourth... Then the mares started giving birth, multiplying the expenses involved.

‘That's how the idea of creating a ranch came about. Breeding, organising rides and selling animals would enable me to live fully through and for my passion.'

By acquiring stallions and thoroughbreds, Sary Pann very quickly managed to make a name for himself in a relatively confidential environment. ‘People who can afford a horse are rare. The price is still high, not to mention all the additional costs involved in maintaining and caring for the animal.

Owning a horse has always been a symbol of wealth, from the earliest times. Appearing in Angkorian bas-reliefs alongside elephants, the horse was once ridden by princes or the king. Today, it is still synonymous with power and affluence.

Californian exile

At the age of 22, Sary Pann was forcibly conscripted into the Khmer Rouge troops, which he deserted as soon as he could to take refuge in Phnom Penh. There he worked for the American embassy until the fall of the city, which gave him, his wife and 2 children the right to travel to the United States. ‘I was very lucky to be able to settle there. I came from a poor and starving family, and nothing predestined me to go and live there’.

He spent his entire professional career in California, where he discovered horses. He was fascinated by the complicity that could develop between man and his most noble conquest, and taught himself the basics of horsemanship.

‘To put it simply, we all learn from our mistakes. To put it another way, I've risked my life more than once by riding recklessly, without realising the dangers that can arise when you're inexperienced and think you're above the risks.'

‘That's why I always ask my visitors what their level is. It's not an insignificant question, because their abilities will determine the way they are looked after, their itinerary and, of course, their choice of mount. Cambodian horses, which are smaller than average, are ideal for beginners.

Riding for all

All levels are welcome at Happy Ranch, from beginner to advanced, from child to adult, from individual to group of 10, for excursions lasting from 1 to 4 hours. The only restriction is the rider's weight, which, if too heavy, could cause the horse to suffer.

‘You see, I sometimes think I'm a bit too fat to ride,’ says Sary with a smile, pointing to his waistline.

‘Besides, I'm not young any more, I don't have the reflexes of yesteryear. But I still practise, especially when friends who share the same passion come to visit. But nothing is lost for overweight people: a carriage can be attached to the horse and a different kind of ride becomes possible. The routes, for both riders and carriage passengers, allow you to discover rice fields, pagodas, Angkorian temples - in short, all the beautiful Cambodian countryside that we love so much.

Permanent complicity

Located not far from the famous street of Sok San, the ranch is immediately noticeable from its gateway, adorned with steeds that seem to cut through the wind amidst the stars. Visitors have free access to the vast grounds and stables, approaching and petting the horses inside.

‘We had to part with some of them, particularly because of the Covid pandemic. The number of customers coming for a ride plummeted, while we had to keep the ranch running. It's not a hotel or a shop that you can close at will: Covid or no Covid, the horses are alive and we have to continue to look after them in the same way. The costs are the same, whether for feed, bedding or running costs... This has put me in a very difficult position and I want more than anything to get back to business as usual'.

In recent months, with the lifting of health restrictions, the number of people coming to the ranch has increased significantly. People come for horse riding, but also to enjoy the atmosphere of the place and to take pre-wedding photos. I hope it will continue to do so.

One last smile, one last thumbs-up, and Sary Pann returned to his home at the entrance to the ranch. It's a way for him to stay close to his horses. ‘I've always been by their side, and I always will be.

Translated with DeepL.com (free version)

Contact : www.thehappyranch.com

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