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Writer's pictureVoyageuse Passion

Koh Trong: An island on the Mekong to discover rural Cambodia at its best

Koh Trong is an island situated in the middle of the Mekong River, located opposite the eponymous capital of Kratie province. The island is approximately eight kilometres in length and is characterised by the presence of grapefruit trees in its gardens, an almost uninhabited central area, and extensive rice fields, woodlands and bamboo groves.

Sandbanks on the Mekong River
Sandbanks on the Mekong River

Koh Trong is situated approximately five hours' travel time to the north-east of Phnom Penh. A mere five minutes and 1,000 riels on the ferry from Kratie is all that is required to find oneself in a Cambodia that is starkly different from the urban environment of the larger cities.

Farmer from Koh Trong
Farmer from Koh Trong

The island's primary mode of transportation is by bicycle, motorbike, or ox cart. The island's traditional wooden houses line the road, and the Wat remains the tallest building in the area. There is currently no chain of cafés, and the local residents adhere to a traditional sleep schedule, with bedtime occurring around 9 p.m. Despite this, there are occasional instances of karaoke nights or celebrations.

Inhabitant of Koh Trong
Inhabitant of Koh Trong

The appeal of the island lies in its capacity to offer visitors a respite from the bustle of the mainland, allowing them to immerse themselves in the natural environment and the melodies of birdsong. A few days spent exploring the island on foot provides an opportunity to appreciate the island's natural beauty and to engage with the local flora and fauna. Furthermore, visitors have the opportunity to become acquainted with some of the island's residents.

To illustrate, the southern extremity of the island is home to a Vietnamese Buddhist temple that was constructed in 1966. The site also contains the tombs of ethnic Vietnamese individuals born in Cambodia as early as 1930. There is a notable population of Cambodians of Vietnamese origin on the island, and the community on Koh Trong appears to be both sedentary and prosperous. The Vietnamese language is spoken openly in the wooden stilt houses and floating homes, and the rich farmland produces not only the usual rice, but also Vietnamese mint.

Mekong Beach
Mekong Beach

Koh Trong is characterised by extensive sandbanks, impressive arboreal formations and secluded bathing spots, which afford visitors the opportunity to appreciate the island's diverse natural features. The extent of the sandbanks can vary considerably depending on the season, at times approximating the dimensions of a conventional beach.

Inhabitant of Koh Trong
Inhabitant of Koh Trong

It is also worth noting that Kratie itself is a destination worthy of exploration. The city's French colonial architectural heritage is exemplified by the Governor's House, situated along the riverfront. The area also features a number of older structures, including pagodas and wooden houses, which provide insight into Cambodia's historical and cultural roots.

Proue d'embarcation locale
Proue d'embarcation locale

For those wishing to observe the Irrawaddy dolphins, which are critically endangered, boat trips are an excellent opportunity to do so (the cost is 9 dollars per person).

Ploughing in Koh Trong
Ploughing in Koh Trong

Transport: From Phnom Penh, shared taxis, minivans or large buses make the journey (often towards Steung Treng or Ratanakiri). It takes around five hours to reach Kratié, passing through Cham villages, rubber plantations and miles of rice paddies. From the Kratie pier, you can take a ferry to Koh Trong (1,000 riels).

Young women from Koh Trong
Young women from Koh Trong

In regard to accommodation, The Koh Trong Community Ecotourism Centre offers homestays at a cost of four dollars per night, with an additional four dollars charged for food.

Villa Soriyabori
Villa Soriyabori

At the opposite end of the island, in an idyllic setting, is Villa Soriyabori, a lodging facility operated by the Clais family, who also own the Terres Rouges lodge in Ratanakiri. The Arun Guesthouse occupies a central position. It is neither a homestay nor a refined establishment, yet it offers excellent local cuisine.

Arun Guesthouse
Arun Guesthouse

Koh Trong Community Ecotourism Centre - Tel: +855 (0) 85 365 357; 011 235 127; 012 552 073

Photographs by Chiara Abbate

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