Koh Trong is an island situated in the middle of the Mekong River, located opposite the eponymous capital of Kratie province. The island is approximately eight kilometres in length and is characterised by the presence of grapefruit trees in its gardens, an almost uninhabited central area, and extensive rice fields, woodlands and bamboo groves.
Koh Trong is situated approximately five hours' travel time to the north-east of Phnom Penh. A mere five minutes and 1,000 riels on the ferry from Kratie is all that is required to find oneself in a Cambodia that is starkly different from the urban environment of the larger cities.
The island's primary mode of transportation is by bicycle, motorbike, or ox cart. The island's traditional wooden houses line the road, and the Wat remains the tallest building in the area. There is currently no chain of cafés, and the local residents adhere to a traditional sleep schedule, with bedtime occurring around 9 p.m. Despite this, there are occasional instances of karaoke nights or celebrations.
The appeal of the island lies in its capacity to offer visitors a respite from the bustle of the mainland, allowing them to immerse themselves in the natural environment and the melodies of birdsong. A few days spent exploring the island on foot provides an opportunity to appreciate the island's natural beauty and to engage with the local flora and fauna. Furthermore, visitors have the opportunity to become acquainted with some of the island's residents.
To illustrate, the southern extremity of the island is home to a Vietnamese Buddhist temple that was constructed in 1966. The site also contains the tombs of ethnic Vietnamese individuals born in Cambodia as early as 1930. There is a notable population of Cambodians of Vietnamese origin on the island, and the community on Koh Trong appears to be both sedentary and prosperous. The Vietnamese language is spoken openly in the wooden stilt houses and floating homes, and the rich farmland produces not only the usual rice, but also Vietnamese mint.
Koh Trong is characterised by extensive sandbanks, impressive arboreal formations and secluded bathing spots, which afford visitors the opportunity to appreciate the island's diverse natural features. The extent of the sandbanks can vary considerably depending on the season, at times approximating the dimensions of a conventional beach.
It is also worth noting that Kratie itself is a destination worthy of exploration. The city's French colonial architectural heritage is exemplified by the Governor's House, situated along the riverfront. The area also features a number of older structures, including pagodas and wooden houses, which provide insight into Cambodia's historical and cultural roots.
For those wishing to observe the Irrawaddy dolphins, which are critically endangered, boat trips are an excellent opportunity to do so (the cost is 9 dollars per person).
Transport: From Phnom Penh, shared taxis, minivans or large buses make the journey (often towards Steung Treng or Ratanakiri). It takes around five hours to reach Kratié, passing through Cham villages, rubber plantations and miles of rice paddies. From the Kratie pier, you can take a ferry to Koh Trong (1,000 riels).
In regard to accommodation, The Koh Trong Community Ecotourism Centre offers homestays at a cost of four dollars per night, with an additional four dollars charged for food.
At the opposite end of the island, in an idyllic setting, is Villa Soriyabori, a lodging facility operated by the Clais family, who also own the Terres Rouges lodge in Ratanakiri. The Arun Guesthouse occupies a central position. It is neither a homestay nor a refined establishment, yet it offers excellent local cuisine.
Koh Trong Community Ecotourism Centre - Tel: +855 (0) 85 365 357; 011 235 127; 012 552 073
Photographs by Chiara Abbate
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