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Gastronomy & Talent: Chef Luu Hong and the fusion of flavours

Chef Luu Hong, originally from Kampot in Cambodia, has an abundance of resources at his disposal to stimulate the gustatory senses of patrons who frequent Malis restaurant in Phnom Penh.

Luu Hong, head of the Malis brigades
Luu Hong, head of the Malis brigades

From an early age, Luu Hong was immersed in the spicy aromas emanating from the kitchen of his parents' small family restaurant. Passionate about the culinary arts, Luu is constantly on the lookout for new flavours.

These days, even at weekends, he takes advantage of his free time to concoct delicious dishes to delight the senses of his wife, his two children and his friends in his garden, which he loves so much. When he wants a little respite, he plays the guitar or swims, his favourite sport.

Luu Hong
Luu Hong

Childhood

Luu was born during the Khmer Rouge regime. He was independent and self-taught. At the age of 6, he learned Chinese at home without going to school. From the age of 13, he worked as a young watchmaker. He took the time to watch his mother in the kitchen with her brother, the famous Cambodian chef Luu Meng, between repairs and making new models.

"I loved watching her in the kitchen," he states emphatically. "It was incredibly inspiring; I always call her when I need clarification on my preparations".

During this time, he developed a keen interest in culinary TV programmes, which fuelled his curiosity and firmly established his ambition to become a chef.

From needles to knives

He took his first steps into the world of catering at the age of majority, with no qualifications, and started out in the kitchens of the Red House in Phnom Penh. He was trained by a top Singaporean chef and quickly built up his experience at the establishment as a commis, learning the rudiments and familiarising himself with a wide range of cooking techniques.

"My years at Red House gave me a huge amount of knowledge about the basics. With such a varied menu, I mastered the different ways of cooking, the combinations of flavours, and I was able to manage my time effectively."

In 2006, he joined Malis in Phnom Penh as second chef. He perfected his skills under the guidance of his brother and benefited from the sound advice of his family and French chef Alain Darc. He is currently in charge of the teams at the two Malis restaurants in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap.

The life of a chef is anything but relaxing. The day begins with an initial meeting at 8am with the General Manager to establish future strategies, plan events and so on. He then meets with his team to discuss the organisation and set-up of the service.

When the first customers arrive, the brigade gets down to business. The clatter of utensils and the crackle of seared food mingle with the smell of spices. The stoves are busy satisfying the palates of novices and impatient regulars alike. At the same time, the chef is thinking up new flavours and combinations to exploit. The first service finishes at 2 p.m. sharp.

Luu Hong creation for Valentine's Day
Luu Hong creation for Valentine's Day

At 6 p.m., the second service begins. Luu takes control, preparing the dishes, helping his team with the various stages, giving instructions to the commis and ensuring everything runs smoothly until the ovens are turned off at 9 p.m.

Luu Hong recipe
Luu Hong recipe

Customers demand the best. They want a taste journey that will surprise and delight their taste buds. The chef has a wealth of secret tricks up his sleeve to achieve this.

“My specialty is Kulen mountain pig, renowned for its flesh and unique flavor. I grill it, top it with honey and kroeung (a Khmer curry paste made from lemongrass, kafir leaves, turmeric and galanga). You must slow cook it for an hour on each side and a further two hours on the spit. I also love seafood, especially Mekong lobster. Our customers love this dish with prahok sauce and sticky rice”.

Cochon de Kulen au grill
Cochon de Kulen au grill

Demanding standards, the golden rule

Cooking is not an easy job. Get that straight. In the world of catering, rigour, care and precision are non-negotiable. Dishes must be appetising, attractively presented and served in sync so that even a large table can enjoy the meal together.

A chef must know his environment, the utensils at his disposal and his ingredients inside out to lead a brigade effectively. He must demonstrate the precision of a watchmaker.

"I will refine our customers' palates so that they leave with a smile on their faces".

But that's not all. This profession is also a source of great stress. Luu has cooked for numerous high-profile individuals, including various prime ministers, Thai royalty, and other prominent figures from countries across Asia and beyond. He has also cooked for film celebrities such as Jackie Chan and Michelle Yeoh and prepared dishes for famous sportsmen such as David Beckham. He has even shared the kitchen with Gordon Ramsay, the three-star chef.

"My greatest challenges are often related to pressure." We regularly host high-profile guests, including politicians and artists from across the globe. I've also worked at special events in embassies. "Naturally, the service is the same for everyone, but reputations can be at stake."

Luu Hong à l’œuvre
Luu Hong working

Luu has broadened his taste palette from Singapore to Hong Kong via Laos, Thailand, Japan and Vietnam. He has always been on the lookout for something new. I recall cooking at the Ladies' Recreation Club in Hong Kong, where a charity sale was taking place. The items up for auction included football shirts, books and records signed by prominent figures. The funds were redirected to the NGO PSE.

The future holds more culinary experiments for Luu, who is set on specialising in seafood and grilling. For an exquisite and refined meal, Cambodge Mag can confirm the chef's talents without a doubt and invites you to enjoy the menu concocted by his team.

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