Koh Tonsay (កោះទន្សាយ) is a charming little Cambodian island off the country's southern coast in the Gulf of Thailand, waiting to be discovered and rediscovered... especially as a new port financed by the Asian Development Bank allows all types of boats to dock.
Island without rabbits
Koh Tonsay is located just 4km south of the coastal town of Kep, covers an area of around 2km and is easily accessible by boat from the town's landing stage.
Although no rabbits roam the island, ‘Koh Tonsay’ translates as Rabbit Island. The name is said to be due to its shape, which is reminiscent of a rabbit. During the Sangkum Reastr Niyum regime (1953 to 1970), the island served as a rehabilitation centre for convicted criminals. Roads for horse-drawn carts and rudimentary wooden dwellings were built during this period. Almost all of these buildings were later destroyed by bad weather and several decades of war.
Attractions
The island is open to visitors, and is particularly popular for its ease of access, pretty beaches and scenery that sometimes reminds you - especially on the main beach - of a Polynesian landscape, with beautiful mountains adorned with greenery and tall coconut palms just a few metres from the shore. The water is fairly clean and clear, the sand fine, the surrounding sea shallow, and the seabed has a gradual slope ideal for family swimming and excellent for recreational activities.
You can walk around Rabbit Island and discover other beaches. A few hours is enough to explore the island without rushing. Beware, however, of the tides and the occasional jellyfish along the beach. The heat can be quite stifling, and the water + sun block kit is highly recommended.
From the main beach, a pretty path through the forest leads to a second beach where a few fishing families live in very rudimentary conditions. For those who speak Khmer, it's possible to hear a multitude of anecdotes from these families, whose main source of income is fishing. If you're lucky, you might even come across some of them working on their nets or returning from their day's work in the late afternoon.
Every evening, some of them go fishing for the Kep blue crab, which can only be found at night. Fishermen who are passing through also come to eat on the island, making it a real welcoming place with a resolutely family atmosphere.
From this second beach, you can clearly see the Vietnamese islands just opposite. However, as this part of the island has little or no tourism, there are no reception facilities and waste management leaves something to be desired. Even though the low population density generates little waste, the paradisiacal image is somewhat dented, but the visit is still very pleasant. Here too, the scenery is splendid and the clear water is perfect for a swim.
Welcome
For the record, I hadn't set foot on the island since 2005. At the time, there were almost no facilities on the island and it still had a rather wild charm. Today, the area offers a multitude of guest houses of uneven quality, but sufficient to spend the night.
The structures are essentially family-run businesses, and the island is still untouched by any major tourist projects. Every member of the family works hard every day to make their guest house as pleasant as possible. Despite these efforts, the cleanliness of the surroundings of some of these small hotels is in dire need of improvement, especially after the weekend, which sees a fairly large influx of tourists who are not always conscientious.
Most of these gîtes offer a restaurant service for lunch and dinner, with mainly seafood and fish on the menu. And because the produce is fresh, it's always a real treat. During the day, many of these gites offer boat trips, snorkelling and even massages. For $1, a granny offers to hire out her large buoys, mainly truck inner tubes, for those tempted to laze around in the waves.
For those who are less fond of the sun, there are a number of little huts with hammocks where you can have lunch and then have a nap without having to move..
Koh Tonsay is still a very pleasant, almost heavenly place to spend a lazy day or weekend in the sun, for those who want to get away from the hustle and bustle of the city for a while. The island is just a few dozen minutes from Kep, and the scenery is a photographer's delight. A family holiday gives children the chance to discover different outdoor activities. The prices charged by the restaurants and gites remain reasonable, so there's no reason to miss out on a tropical break.
Text and photos by CG and DTH
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