A few kilometres from Phnom Penh, in the province of Kandal, the village of Kroh Kroubey is best known for its jasmine farms.
A fragrant village
Every morning, a sweet, floral fragrance permeates Saruon's home and field. As his wife works to thread the buds onto the thin stems, the delicate aroma of jasmine flowers (p'kah maleas) perfumes the air on this October afternoon. This time of year is still the best season for harvesting, as the water from the abundant monsoon rains enables the shrubs to produce many flowers,’ explains Saron, who with his wife owns a modest jasmine farm in the village of Koh Kroubey, a region renowned in Cambodia for its farms growing this emblematic flower of the kingdom.
With the help of two employees, Saron harvests the pale green jasmine buds early each morning before the flowers can bloom. The fragrant buds are then sold to wholesalers and the surrounding markets.
“At this time of year, the shrubs flower abundantly and the price of jasmine becomes relatively low, $10 a kilo, but from December onwards, the plants produce far fewer flowers, so the price can rise to $25 a kilo”.
Religious use
In Cambodia, jasmine buds are mainly used to make offerings to Buddha, because of their distinctive fragrance and white colour. The word jasmine comes from the Persian yasmin, meaning ‘gift of the gods’. Buds and flowers are also used in decorative ornaments for temples, festivals, birthdays and weddings. Flowers can also be added to the holy water used for blessings by Buddhist monks.
There are two main types of jasmine offering: Je kah, a thin stick with buds surrounding it, usually with a red flower at the end, and pum melei a circular garland, which Cambodian devotees place around the necks of Buddha statues.
Culinary use
When the founders of the Malis restaurant were looking for a name for their establishment, Luu Meng and Arnaud Darc adopted the word Malis jasmine, which comes from the Khmer word p'kah maleas, because of its consonance with and link to Buddhist culture.
In addition to the local note and the religious aspect, chef Luu Meng has also decided to incorporate jasmine flowers into the recipes of the Malis restaurant, particularly in the preparation of the desserts. Gourmets will certainly appreciate the Malis mousse, a light cream infused with jasmine flower and hints of Cambodian honey and ginger, rimmed with fresh seasonal fruit and served with crispy rice and coconut ice cream, for example...
Tradition
The villagers of Koh Kroubey have a long tradition of growing jasmine, and the techniques have been passed down from generation to generation. Although the crops are not as abundant or lucrative as rice, jasmine is a year-round crop and requires little maintenance once the trees are mature (after two years).
Jasmine plants require no pesticides or chemical fertilisers, just plant compost. The trees are cut back after three or four years to encourage the growth of flowers and buds. As for income, Saron explains: “You don't get very rich, but this activity is enough to feed the family properly”.
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