Destination & Cardamomes : O'Key Camping, an authentic ecotourism experience in Cambodia
- Voyageuse Passion
- Feb 19
- 5 min read
Near Cardamomes, on Koh Kong, there is a wooden chalet with a few porches overlooking the valley, allowing visitors to contemplate the greenery of the mountainous jungle as it plunges into a valley where a river can be seen meandering through the landscape.
Remarkably, the chalet itself was built without damaging any of the surrounding trees, leaving openings for plants to grow naturally. The overhanging porches are linked to a staircase that descends to a stream, leaving visitors in the shade of the trees, facing the mountains.
The chalet is actually a restaurant opened by a newly created resort located between the Chi Phat and Areng eco-communities in Koh Kong.
“O'Key Camping starts with the restaurant on the river and those who appreciate good coffee and local cuisine will really enjoy themselves here,” explains Tuy Vannak, 31 and owner of the resort.
The restaurant overlooking the mountains and sitting on the O'Key River is where the camping experience begins, with original menus featuring saltwater and freshwater langoustines, crabs and hybrid chickens.
“The restaurant is located on the edge of the valley and is connected to the river by stairs, all facing a mountain called O'Key - one of the Cardamom Mountains,” says Vannak.
The locals fish for lobsters and crabs, which are the specialities of the restaurant in Chi Phat cove. The colourfully plumaged chickens are raised by their families in the wild.
“They are domestic chickens that have been bred with wild chickens and that's why they are so beautiful,” explains Vannak.
He is currently developing a nine-hectare complex, including one hectare for the lodge and seven hectares for a plantation of durians and other fruit trees.
At the restaurant, customers can buy freshwater crayfish and lobster direct from the local market for 120,000 riels a kilo ($30) and crab costs 80,000 riels ($20). A 1.2 kilo hybrid chicken costs 70,000 riels ($17.25) and a 1.5 kilo chicken 80,000 riels ($20).
The chef at the O'Key restaurant charges 20,000 riels ($5) per kilo to prepare dishes to order, whether steamed, grilled or in soup. Visitors can eat as a family or order individual dishes depending on the number of people in their party. All orders must be placed in advance, however, as the restaurant needs time to source the necessary ingredients.
‘My land is covered in wild bananas, so one of the popular dishes we prepare is grilled chicken with wild bananas,’ explains Mr Vannak, adding that he is preparing to harvest his durian next year for the first time and it will also be on the menu.
As well as specialities, Vannak also offers more common Cambodian dishes that visitors can order in advance depending on what is available on the market.
Neou Veasna stands on the upper porch of the chalet, one hand holding a cup of coffee as he gazes out over the mountain, fascinated by the atmosphere and natural beauty that surrounds O'Key restaurant.
Veasna - Knong Psar's renowned night adventurer who documents his wilderness journeys on his Kindness Back Facebook page - is a big fan of the O'Key camping, river and restaurant experience.
“If it's full moon, the night is bright with moonlight. If it's night, then there are thousands of stars. You can't get lost. In the morning, we get up early to have a coffee and watch the hornbills fly and swim in the waters below,” says Veasna.
According to Vannak, the resort is around 12km from the town of Chi Phat and is easily accessible by car. The resort now offers camping tents for hire. A tent costs $15 and sleeps two people. It comes with an air mattress, pillow, fan and two bottles of water.
“I plan to build three holiday bungalows, each with two bedrooms. One of them will be equipped with a glass wall so that the occupants can admire the magnificent view of the mountains at all times. Holidaymakers will be dazzled, but in fact, even those who live here full-time stop to admire the scenery,” he explains.
Vannak says he hopes to have the holiday homes ready in around six months. Each cabin will be equipped with a kitchen, a porch and even a small swimming pool. Rentals are expected to cost between $150 and $200 per night for up to 10 people.
Vannak has prepared a suggested itinerary for those wishing to visit Chi Phat and Areng. Assuming someone arrives in Chi Phat around mid-day after travelling, they still have time to explore the Chi Phat, Chay Jrey and Chay Khpos waterfalls. Then, in the evening, she can relax by staying at the O'Key campsite.
“On the second day, you can visit the O'Mlou waterfall and the Areng eco-community.”
It takes about an hour to get there, as it's 30 km from the O'Key campsite. We have motorbikes for hire which cost 40,000 riels ($10) a day. If you need a local guide, there are some available for 60,000 riels ($15) a day,’ explains Vannak.
Leaving the campsite at 7.30am, travellers will arrive in Areng about an hour later and can wander around the village and visit the local sights.
At 3 or 4 pm, they can return to the O'Key campsite and arrive at the lodge around 5 pm. Then it's time for dinner and a relaxing evening.
“In the evening, we light a campfire with roast potatoes, or sometimes we even go fishing at night. There's a canyon where we do that,” he adds.
An alternative to O'Key Camping is the Sunbear Ecolodge Resort, in the town of Chi Phat, which has been open for seven years.
Located on a two-hectare site, Sunbear Ecolodge has ten bungalows far enough apart for those seeking the solitude of the forest. They are built with thatched roofs and are located near the centre of the village of Chi Phat, in the commune of the same name.
Single bungalows cost 20 dollars, double bungalows 25 dollars and family bungalows (3 beds) 40 dollars. They are equipped with fans, indoor plumbing and bathrooms with water heaters.
“Each bungalow is separated from the others by 10 to 15 metres and the paths are linked by wooden bridges. What's pretty cool is that these bungalows are located on the Chan Krishna plantation and are surrounded by durian trees, which allows us to practise agrotourism at the same time as ecotourism,” explains Vannak.
O'Key Camping is located in Chi Phat village in Chi Phat commune in the Thmar Bang district of Koh Kong province. For more information, call 077 834 333 or visit their Facebook page: https://bit.ly/OKeyCamping.
Raksmey Hong with our partner The Phnom Penh Post
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