On a map, Anloung Chen can be seen as an ordinary, isolated island on the Bassac River, a tributary of the Tonlé Sap and Mekong rivers. There are no mountains, ancient ruins or large forests and waterfalls to attract traditional tourists.
Unknown rural paradise
Yet for nature lovers and outdoor enthusiasts, the island in Kandal province, around 20 kilometres from the capital Phnom Penh, has everything to offer, provided you like it simple. Although Anloung Chen is relatively unknown to tourist guides, a few locals and expatriates regularly go there to hike or cycle or simply to enjoy the fresh air from the river and the greenery that covers most of the island.
In fact, Anloung Chen is best known for its agricultural produce rather than as a traditional tourist destination. Succulent fruit and vegetables grow in the fertile soil created by the river and its abundant silt. The farmers who live there, mainly smallholders, visit the island's banks once or twice a year to collect sand and spread it on their land to make it more fertile without the need for chemical fertilisers.
Longans
The island is particularly well known to Cambodians for its succulent longans, a fruit native to south-east China with a flavour similar to that of the lychee and rambutan. In Anloung Chen, the longan, also known as the ‘Eye of the Dragon’ or ‘Mein’ in Cambodia, can be found everywhere, in plantations, along the road and in front of houses.
At the height of the season, many farmers will set up stalls in front of their houses to sell their longans for between 10,000 and 20,000 riels a kilo, because of its distinctive flavour, while longans imported from Thailand cost around 1 dollar a kilo. Most of the island's farmers supply the Kandal and Phnom Penh markets during the June to September season. Prices then fall significantly after the season.
From farm to table
But the island is not just a paradise for longans: spinach, papaya, bananas, jackfruit and aromatic herbs such as chives are also grown here. Fresh produce that makes Phnom Penh's chefs, who buy their supplies on the island, very happy. Among them is the famous Cambodian chef Luu Meng, who knows the island and its inhabitants well, and who makes it a point of honour for the Malis restaurant to buy directly from the producer, to avoid intermediaries and guarantee freshness.
‘The aim is to obtain the freshest ingredients, grown without pesticides or chemicals. We do our best to ensure that only the freshest produce is used at Malis,’ he says.
‘By working this way, we avoid the wholesaler in the supply chain and the ingredients are delivered to us more quickly,’ he ADDS.
Cursed origin
According to one farmer, it was the Chinese who first settled this land and introduced longan cultivation. Legend has it that few remained because of the many disappearances that plagued the Chinese community. In fact, the most likely explanation stems from the presence of very deep quicksand on part of the island, which made it impossible to find the bodies of those who ventured there and did not return.
Quiet and smiles
As is often the case for destinations with little tourism, the island of Anloung Chen is a calm and peaceful place where the inhabitants welcome the few visitors with kindness and that famous Khmer smile. The local population enjoys a quiet island life, with no pollution or traffic noise. There is no market apart from a few stalls in front of individual houses. From time to time, you come across a vendor on a bicycle or motorbike selling clothes, toys or kitchen utensils, but nothing else. Many families are virtually self-sufficient when it comes to food, preparing their meals from fish caught in the river and local vegetables.
Leisure
You can walk, cycle or simply stroll around the island with a picnic. Allow a good three hours to cover the whole island at a brisk pace, and don't forget to bring a hat and plenty of water, as the heat can be quite surprising. But the island is also great for fishing, as the waters are teeming with fish, particularly during the monsoon season. On a good day, you can catch catfish, perch and even eels. A small stove is handy for preparing a meal in the wild, with a little rice and local vegetables.
Towards the southern end of the island is Anloung Chen's only primary school. A huge Bodhi tree, planted some twenty years ago, provides shade for the entire school grounds and allows visitors to take a break while exploring the island.
There are two large pagodas on the island, Wat Kbal Koh and Wat Chong Koh, where you can stroll through the small flowery groves and watch the monks at work.
How to get to Anloung Chen
From Phnom Penh, head south on National Road 2 for about 40 minutes and then take Route 21A into Kandal province. Once you reach the commune of Svay Rolum, it's another 20 minutes before you find the ferry terminal on the left, where you can board one of the six boats bound for Anloung Chen.
Unlike the ferries that ply the Tonle Sap, those serving Anloung Chen are smaller, with enough room for a car and a few motorbikes. The scenery, the view of the river and the fishing boats can be a great source of inspiration for photographers.
Text and photographs by Christophe Gargiulo
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