Cambodia & Discovery: The unique atmosphere of Preah Khan Kompong Svay (ព្រះខ័ននៅកំពង់ស្វាយ)

Among the ancient religious monuments outside Angkor Wat is the temple of Preah Khan in Preah Vihear province. It covers an area of over five square miles, making it the largest of the Angkorian religious sites.

About Preah Khan

Preah Khan Kompong Svay is located in north-west Cambodia. The main town to the south is Kampong Thom, while the town of Preah Vihear lies to the north. The forest in which it is located is called Boeng Peae Wildlife Sanctuary.

Due to its remote location, this temple complex was only properly documented in the mid-twentieth century. It is thought to have been founded in the 11th century, probably by Suryavarman I. It was a royal residence during the reign of Suryavarman II, and even Jayavarman VII is said to have lived here before taking over the capital of Yasodharapura.

Preah Khan Kampong Svay

Preah Khan Kampong Svay (ព្រះខ័ននៅកំពង់ស្វាយ) is located in Preah Vihear province, not in Kampong Svay as its name might suggest. It is also known as Prasat Bakan or Bakan Svay Rolay. The site was added to UNESCO's provisional World Heritage List on March 27, 2020.

Preah Khan Kompong Svay

Important detail: Preah Khan Kompong Svay is not the same as the Preah Khan temple in Angkor (Siem Reap). As the crow flies, the distance between the two sites is 95 km. What's more, the famous Preah Khan is just a temple, whereas at Preah Khan Kompong Svay, there are a number of structures and a large baray.

Looting

After several French missions in the 19th century, Victor Goloubew undertook aerial surveys in 1937 that revealed the true extent of the complex. The site was not rediscovered until the late 1930s and, until the mid-1990s, was extensively ransacked by archaeologists and looters.

Apparently, the latter even used heavy equipment such as excavators and, as a result, the central enclosure, in particular, looks like a ruined mess of stones. However, the abundance of vegetation, the peacefulness of the place and these “abandoned works” give this temple a rather unique atmosphere.

Many famous Khmer sculptures come from this temple, such as the head of Jayavarman VII, on display at the National Museum in Phnom Penh. The sculptures and engravings at Preah Khan Kompong Svay are considered by experts to be masterpieces of Khmer art.

To discover

It's hard to imagine these temple complexes in all their splendor housing tens of thousands of people in ancient times. Today, Preah Khan is a relatively uncrowded place, apart from a few locals and farmers who graze their cattle in the surrounding area.

Much of the forest that once covered this region of Cambodia has disappeared due to the exploitation of precious wood destined for Vietnam and China. And yet, in the rainy season, the lush greens of the rice paddies and palm trees, combined with the modest wooden houses, offer a landscape of a more traditional Cambodia, far removed from the frenetic development of the provincial capitals. To get there, it's easy to take a cab from Kampong Thom, Siem Reap or Preah Vihear. A camera is of course highly recommended.