It's still early, very early, on this Saturday morning. Through the wide-open windows, the sound of birdsong echoes in a still Phnom Penh. It's a calm that contrasts with the excitement that has gripped the household, as everyone, still wide awake, scurries about in confusion to complete the final preparations for the big departure.
Destination Siem Reap
It's been a long time since our family has travelled, so this long weekend less than 300 kilometres from the capital has the air of adventure and exoticism about it. It's already been over a year since our last visit to the temple city. Friends, articles and comments on social networks have given us a number of scenarios that we are now preparing to verify with our own eyes. What haven't we heard about this city in heated discussions...
‘From a field of ruins’ to the birth of a smart city, from economic disaster to ‘business (almost) as usual’, everyone seems to have a strong opinion on the situation the city is currently experiencing’.
So, for the past week, we've been preparing our future activities. Sophary, my wife, was dreaming of a photo shoot in the deserted temples, immortalising our little family forever. Pierre, at the height of his teens, was incredibly convincing in persuading us to take him to Wake Park.
Neither Sophary nor I knew what such a place might be like, but Pierre, with stars in his eyes, repeated the fevered account that his classmates had given him. Go to Wake Park... Kanya, an indefatigable defender of nature, wanted to see the elephants of the Kulen sanctuary up close.
As for me, I wanted to finally discover these famous floating villages, which I had never been to before. The warnings against these particularly touristy places had put me off until now, but after all, perhaps the time had come to revise my preconceptions. What is certain is that, as we prepared for the trip, we suspected that Siem Reap would not quite resemble the ghost town that some people had described to us.
Departure
After a final tour of the flat to check that everything was in order, we joined the taxi waiting for us at the foot of the building. With the arrival of Pierre and Kanya, the picturesque but uncomfortable bus journeys across the country had given way to a higher standard. Calm, fast, air-conditioned, a flexible itinerary and a relatively low fare for this type of service had convinced us to opt for the taxi option.
As we drive away from Phnom Penh, and as we do every time we set off for a destination outside the capital, I can't help but think of all the riches this country has to offer. As the landscape unfolds, our imaginations are suddenly fired by the desire to discover new things. The coastline and its still-secret places protected from developers, the provinces with their exuberant nature, the remote temples, the waterfalls, the little dirt tracks...
Stopover at Kampong Tom
Stopping in Kampong Thom, we have a brief chat over coffee about this little-known province. And we promise to discover the charms of the surrounding countryside, the beauty and spirituality of Phnom Santuk, and the Sambor Prei Kuk complex, a constellation of pre-Angkorian temples dating back to the 7th century, on our next trip.
In any case, Kampong Thom should no longer be seen as a simple half-way stage between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap: it's with this conclusion that Sophary and I finish our coffee and call back the children who, having long since finished their coconuts, had gone to stretch their legs in the restaurant courtyard.
Siem Reap at last
After five hours on the road, we were delighted to finally arrive in Siem Reap. We headed for the Sofitel, which would be our base for the duration of our stay. The hotel's top-of-the-range comforts, shady gardens and huge swimming pool will not be enough to keep us in shape.
During the journey, the children gradually added new requests to their ‘to-do list’. Seduced and intrigued by these initiatives, we didn't have the heart to refuse them, although we did wonder whether we could carry out all these projects in such a short space of time. In the meantime, after freshening up and putting down the luggage in the spacious room, everyone agreed to go for lunch.
Sophary and I exchange a knowing glance when we talk about the holiday centres. In addition to the accommodation, all sorts of activities are regularly organised for all ages.
A stay in Siem Reap for our offspring, who would be able to enjoy the company of children their own age, gives us a glimpse of the possibility of spending a few days together. With the information we've gathered, we promise to think about it for the next holidays, especially as Kanya and Pierre seem to be won over by such a prospect.
IFC Wake Park
The stifling heat of the early afternoon pushes us into the tuk-tuk, heading for the Wake Park where the children, delighted, can let off steam for an hour. We were curious to find out what this place was like, even though Pierre had been inexhaustible in his explanations:
- It takes place on a large body of water, and it's like water-skiing, but with a board. With your feet strapped to it, you grab a handle and it pulls super fast and it's great. You can slalom and everything, there are different courses depending on your level and obstacles to avoid if you know how to drive the board properly.
“And you can even do tricks? Yeah, tricks”.
A little worried, we console ourselves by thinking that it will always be less dangerous than Pierre's skateboarding, and that the park's instructors will be able to channel his boundless energy.
Once we arrived, they put us at ease and invited us to watch our teenager's first attempts, which suddenly made him less of a show-off. A video is a must! Kanya, more of a swimmer, is already enjoying the fine sandy beach on the lake. Sophary and I sit down with a glass of fresh fruit juice and enjoy this little moment of calm, taking in the rhythm of the present moment, punctuated by the children's cries of joy.
Return and surprises
On the way back, we ask the tuk-tuk to drop us off at the foot of the Angkor Eye Ferris wheel, which was still under construction when we last visited. All around it, small shops offer pancakes, ice creams and all sorts of delicacies in an atmosphere reminiscent of a funfair. We took our seats in an air-conditioned gondola and, at a height of 85 metres, discovered the expanse of the city, bathed in the ruddy light of late afternoon.
In the distance, the rice fields stretch as far as the eye can see, with the Great Lake to the south and the Kulen Mountains to the north-east as the only boundaries. The ‘Waow!’ from the children proves that we've made the right choice, and we ourselves are not insensitive to the beauty of the scenery and the romanticism of the situation. Whatever your age, a ride on a Ferris wheel is always a little bit wonderful.
The day is already well advanced when we return to the hotel, and night is beginning to fall on a city that we sometimes struggle to recognise.
Programme
We decided to make the most of the Sofitel's sumptuous room and have dinner at one of the hotel's two restaurants. Having been up since 5am, we're starting to feel a bit tired, especially as tomorrow promises to be even busier than today. On the agenda: temples in the company of a professional photographer, a walk with the elephants, a picnic in the Cambodian countryside and a Khmer massage. We discuss the programme while sipping cocktails and listening to Diego and his guitar, the perfect conclusion to our first day in a city that has yet to stop surprising us.
In the early hours of the morning, all hell broke loose in the bedroom, which was still asleep. We've got to make the most of the morning freshness and, above all, its exceptional clarity. Because this half-day will be devoted to a stroll around the temples in the company of photographer Régis Binard, who knows how to find the right places for shots that will remain forever in the family archives. Just think! Deserted temples, a world away from the mass tourism that had taken over, in the company of a photographer who knows them like the back of his hand: this was a dream opportunity and an incredible chance to be seized.
Magic of Angkor
Here we are, in the blink of an eye, walking down the central aisle of Angkor Wat, posing among the apsaras and devatas adorning the walls, hand in hand, following the discreet yet confident guidance of Régis. After years spent exploring the temples, he now guides us through the most secret corners, perfect for capturing stunning images. As for the magic of Angkor... The children run among the ruins and play hide and seek, while we admire these grand monuments that are undoubtedly among the most majestic achievements of humanity.
Once the photo session was over, a bit dazed by the sun and the heat, our heads slightly spinning from this abundance of masterpieces, we decided to take our leave and went to cool off in our room. Kanya is becoming increasingly impatient and keeps asking us when we are leaving.
Meeting with the elephants
And for good reason! In about half an hour, after having a light meal, we will be on our way to the elephant forest, located a short distance from downtown, at the foot of the Kulen mountains. This is where the dozen elephants that faithfully carried tourists within the temple grounds found refuge, a practice that has recently been banned. Enjoying a well-deserved retirement, the elephants lead peaceful days, only distracted by the presence of visitors who come to walk alongside them to admire them.
And the word is not overused, as evidenced by Kanya's reaction, who, with stars in her eyes, will confess to us on the way back that it is the most beautiful day of her life. Nearly 6 hours spent in the company of these gentle giants, crowned by a picnic in their presence, we will have given everyone unforgettable memories.
On our return, the aches and accumulated fatigue lead us to treat ourselves to a little moment of extreme relaxation. We leave the children in good hands at the hotel and choose a revitalizing treatment at Bodia, one of the best massage establishments in the kingdom. It took nothing less to rejuvenate us, and here we are, emerging as if floating on a cloud of well-being.
Fusion and class diner.
We decide to extend this special moment and conclude the day beautifully with a dinner at Malis, which offers the best of Khmer cuisine. With our minds and bodies filled with sunshine and images, we sit down at the table in this temple of cuisine to savor a menu that will crown our vacation. We carefully choose the dishes crafted by Chef Luu Meng, who has managed to bring a personal and refreshing touch to Cambodian specialties.
On our table parade, much to the delight of our taste buds, a green mango salad with smoked fish, a moringa soup, Takeo sausages, a delicious Samlor Korko, a chicken curry, and lobster marinated in a spiced sauce with prahok. A certain idea of happiness.
The next day, we enjoy a relatively lazy morning and take some time to relax by the pool. I still sneak a few furtive glances at the watch from time to time: in a little over an hour, a driver will take us to the edge of the Great Lake, to the dock, heading for Mechrey.
Another life on the lake
This peaceful floating village, which seems to stand apart from time, is reached after traveling a few miles by boat. Hair in the wind and a broad smile on our faces, we pass by the fishermen's boats that skillfully weave between the water hyacinths. Another life unfolds before our eyes, far, very far from the one we are accustomed to in Phnom Penh. During the journey, our guide explains the challenges associated with lakeside living, but also its advantages for residents who mostly remain attached to this way of life. After passing the pagoda, the last solid monument, we find ourselves in the middle of what can be called the "main avenue" of Mechrey.
We stop in the middle of the stalls that also serve as homes to chat with the villagers and decide to share their table for a communal lunch. Soon, a crowd gathers, not to take advantage of us as tourists, but to exchange words and glances, the presence of city dwellers being a rather exceptional thing to be noticed. We then return to our boat for an excursion on the lake, still illuminated by our tireless guide. We think, with a bit of a heavy heart, that we will have to return to the capital this afternoon, thus bringing an end to this fantastic weekend.
Siem Reap, life flows on
What to think of the "city of temples" now? Obviously, Siem Reap is undoubtedly a city different from the one we previously knew. The atmosphere is no longer the same; the iron curtains have fallen on many businesses, some of which we knew the owners of, and we can only imagine the economic consequences and the human costs associated with this pandemic.
Siem Reap does not rely solely on tourism, but this activity still represents a significant portion of the city's and province's income, much more than in Phnom Penh. Yet, life still flows in the streets, in the markets, in the many cafés frequented by students, in the restaurants… Strange feeling that we discuss for a while with Sophary, each trying to imagine what the city will look like when we return.
And we will certainly return there sooner than expected, to enjoy the temples, the surrounding nature, the walks along the river, and so many other activities that have been added to the list we started before our stay. Initially hesitant and uncertain, this list gradually filled one, then two pages, and is certainly not finished. Siem Reap, what is there to do besides the temples? There, or rather the answers turn out to be as numerous as they are varied. So see you very soon, Siem Reap, for a new stay that will undoubtedly be filled with many delightful surprises.
Photographic credit: Rémi Abad, Malis Siem Reap, Sofitel, Bo Nielsen, Christophe Gargiulo, Bodia
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