Angkor & Destination: Discover the secret temple of Ta Nei

Ta Nei is one of the many temples built by Jayavarman VII in the late 12th century. It is located in the north-west corner of the Angkor reservoir, the Eastern Baray, and is not often visited.

The temple is located in the forest and can only be reached by using a track through the forest. It lies a few hundred metres east of Ta Keo and north of Ta Prohm.

This somewhat isolated temple is not crowded with tourists like nearby Ta Prohm, and offers visitors the chance to realise the dream of exploring the ruins of an ancient temple almost buried in the jungle.

Inside the temple, you can hear the sounds of the animals instead of the sometimes noisy conversations and camera clicks.

At the time of Jayavarman VII, the temple was 35 metres long and 26 metres wide. Later, the temple was extended eastwards to reach a total length of 46 metres. Finally, it was extended to 55 metres long and 47 metres wide during the reign of Indravarman II.

It is therefore one of the last single-storey temples built in the Angkor period. In the archaeological park, there are only small isolated towers, such as Mangalartha, dating from a later period than Ta Nei.

The Gopuram at the main entrance faces a terrace on the east side. Two Prasat towers on the main axis dominate the temple courtyard. The one to the east was originally a Gopuram gate in the first gallery of the east wing, before the temple was enlarged. The other tower to the west is the original shrine and is linked by a smaller chamber to the north Gopuram.

In addition to the two central Prasats and this chamber, there is a building, probably a library, that was erected near the south side, now partially collapsed. The entire temple courtyard is surrounded by other sandstone towers linked by covered passageways along the temple walls. These galleries are made of laterite.

Many of the structures in the temple courtyard have collapsed and it is difficult to walk on the stones and rocks. Nevertheless, this is exactly why Ta Nei is such an authentic ancient temple experience.

There is not as much decoration as in the great Buddhist sanctuaries of the same period, such as Ta Prohm and Preah Khan or Banteay Kdei and Ta Som. At Ta Nei, however, there are enough Apsaras and pediment sculptures in reasonably good condition.

Some of the stone sculptures at Ta Nei depict rather unusual subjects. On the north pediment of the Prasat, a person on a boat is giving a blessing, and flying figures are carrying parasols.

On the north side of the south-west Gopuram, a kneeling figure blesses children inside a palace. On the south side of the north-west Gopuram is a horseman brandishing a sword.

The temple is a photographer's delight, and it is advisable to get there around 4pm to catch the best light. There is no entrance fee, as access is included in the pass for the entire archaeological park.

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